Memsaheb on Thames, Docklands

Let’s be honest, the walk from Crossharbour Station to the river is unlikely to feature in ‘Beautiful Walks of London Volume I’. And the fly tipper who happily reversed down the alleyway and dumped his rubbish in front of us without a care in the world has hardly helped.

But there, right on the Thames is a gem of an Indian, with comfortable decor (love the big blue seats), friendly staff and good food. So good in fact that the Bangladeshi Caterers Association recently named the restaurant as one of its 11 regional winners in its annual Caterer of the Year Award. It was named as best restaurant in Greater London (East).

Ian declares he has cycled past many times and been meaning to try it out. Well, now you’re here, what are you going to order?

Tandoori Lamb Chops (£8.95) it is, sizzling away with tasty onions and green peppers. A plate of this lamb was devoured on a previous visit and it lives up to expectations again. Top notch.

Meanwhile the newest (and our second French) member of the GCC plumps for a King Prawn Biryani (£10.95) although from the size of the prawns the king must be from a really small country. You know, one of those countries you can never remember the name of and is wedged in the mountains between two bigger countries.

But it’s a decent biryani and a welcome choice because it’s a dish that’s often overlooked in restaurants. I suppose because it’s rice based and because rice doesn’t have the sexiest of reputations it usually gets shoved out in favour of something hot or something tikka masala-ish.

I was converted to biryani years ago on a trip to Mumbai, when just hours after landing and while still coming to terms with the time difference, tiredness and the attack on the senses that is India, our host brought out a huge biryani. It was three in the morning and it was one of the best things I had ever tasted.

The key to a good biryani is when you know all the different tastes from the rice, the vegetables, meat and spices have been fused together in the cooking process. Too many restaurants, for speed, seem to just mix the ingredients together at the end. But the Biryani Inspectors will get them in the end.

And hang on, is that broccoli (£3.25) on the table again? Only last month we were surprised to see it on a menu and here it is again. Have the chefs just discovered it or haven’t I been paying attention at the back of class?

The Crab Puri (£4.50) and Tuna Kebab (£4.50), the latter served as plump fish cakes, were interesting and unusual starters, while the Garlic Chilli Chicken (£7.95) is a must for garlic lovers.

Sadly the Kitchen Curry, which is something the chef cooks for the staff and is ‘usually hot’ was sold out. But that’s fine as it gives us an excuse to come again.

Memsaheb, 65-67 Amsterdam Road, Docklands, E14 3UU. Tel: 020 7538 3008.

Memsaheb snapshot

Food ① ② ③ ④

Decor ① ② ③ ④

Value ① ② ③ ④

Atmosphere (Wednesday night) ① ② ③

Service and friendliness ① ② ③ ④

Taste of Raj, Blackheath

It’s a sleepy late summer Tuesday and we’re in the middle of the recession. Blackheath’s Taste of Raj, sitting in the shadow of the village’s iconic All Saints’ Church on the heath, is packed. And this in a village (please, please, always refer to SE3 as a ‘village’ or you’ll upset the genteel locals) where there are “17 other restaurants” I am told by a man in the know. There have been good advance reports. “Best curry place in the area,” curry lover Tina announces when she hears we are off for a visit. She could just be right.

The menu’s a cracker, with a selection of special dishes including Lamb Dubby (£7.50) which uses plenty of Kashmiri chilli and petals from the cockscomb flower and Chicken Dhandar (£7.50) a sort of creamy dhansak with a late spice kick. There are also rarities like the super fresh tasting Tandoori Scallops (£5.95), Courgettes (£4.50) stuffed with potato, onion and coriander and vegetable side dish Broccoli Bhajee (£3.50).

Unusually all the main dishes appear looking exactly the same colour (although they certainly don’t taste the same) so I think it’s safe to say there’s none of the usual colouring used to electrify the look of the dishes here. And hip hip hooray, here’s an Indian chef who knows to keep his chicken moist and tender rather than relying on the sauces to cover up his over-cooking.

The restaurant layout is two sections joined by a little pinch point where you’ll find the bar and one table (where we sit) and this design successfully creates a good buzz while keeping the intimate feel of a small restaurant.

And as always, it’s the little extras. A complimentary soup and ‘magic mushroom’ (that’s a tasty fungi not something you’ll find in Amsterdam) to start, as well as the increasingly common ‘drink on the house’ as we pay the bill, following the less-than-usual orange slices after the main meals.

There’s a little sign in the window declaring ‘Open all Day’. This place would probably even be busy at 4.30.

• Taste of Raj, 9 Royal Parade, Blackheath Village, London, SE3 0TL. Tel: 020 8244 2823 or 020 8244 2822. Open: Daily noon – midnight.

Taste of Raj snapshot

Food ① ② ③ ④

Decor ① ② ③

Value ① ② ③ ④

Atmosphere (Tuesday night) ① ② ③ ④

Service and friendliness ① ② ③ ④