Loving the view

Mountain View, Greenwich, London

Fifteen of the Greenwich Curry Club descended on the newish Mountain View restaurant with recommendations from numerous people still ringing in our ears. The Nepalese recently replaced the Mehak along Trafalgar Road and although its predecessor was pretty decent the Mountain View has raised the bar.

We arrived on what we thought was banquet night only to be told that offer no longer was being run. The Curry Club’s chief grumbler suspected it was because we had turned up en mass but frankly I suspect the offer has been withdrawn because their reputation has grown so quickly they simply don’t need it to attract customers. On the night we visited (Wednesday) the restaurant was packed with a great buzz about the place.

A challenger for the world's greatest samosas
A challenger for the world’s greatest samosas

The food was top-notch and the table heaving with different dishes. Lets start, as so many meals do, with the popadoms. In all my years of visiting and reviewing Indian food the normal process has been for people to break off a bit of the giant crisp, load it up with pickles and fill up their mouths to stave off the hunger pangs before the starters arrived. This is the first time I have ever heard anyone, let alone more than one person comment that they taste so good. I’m not a big fan of popadoms myself and thought they were just a way for the restaurant to add a few sneaky pounds to the bill. After all, who says no to them?

Then came the Lamb and Vegetable Samosas (both £2.45 for two). Well, in actual fact, then came an array of starters but it was the humble samosa that took centre stage. Super plump and well-filled, the samosas are crisp to the bite and the pastry not too thick – the perfect combination.

Well, if a restaurant can get plaudits for its popadoms and samosas then the curries are likely to be a walk in the park. I can’t personally confirm this is the case for one classic dish because our newest (Canadian) member, unversed in the sharing ways of the Curry Club, swiftly tipped his Chicken Tikka Masala onto his plate before you could say, “Where’s the rice?”. But from his clean plate at the end I think we can assume they were as good as other classics such as Lamb Vindaloo (£6.25), Chicken Madras (£5.95), Lamb Dhansak (£6.95), Lamb Biryani (£8.95) and the Lamb and Chicken Jalfrezis (both £6.95), which it should be mentioned were a touch hotter than you’d find in other restaurants but carrying a lovely blend of spice and heat.

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Three happy Curry Club members discuss the merits of Cobra beer

Meanwhile  the Malabar Fish Curry (£8.95) has made me completely revise my view of the Bangladeshi freshwater fish tilapia. Normally dry, this was tender and smothered in a delicious coconut-based sauce. And finally, for fresh veg lovers the Diwani Handi (£5.95) will hit the mark; crunchy asparagus, baby corn and green beans in dark, dry sauce.

Mountain View, 160 Trafalgar Road, Greenwich, London, SE10 9TZ. Tel: 020 8858 0227 0r 020 8293 4752. Open: Mon–Thurs 5pm–11.30pm, Fri 5pm–midnight, Sat noon–2.30pm, 5pm–midnight, Sun noon–11.30pm.

 

The scores on the tandoors

Food 9

Decor 7

Service and friendliness 9

Atmosphere (Wednesday night) 9

Value 9

Bit of a classic

Aroma Spice, Macclesfield

Although we were  eating a little bit early on a Saturday night I was surprised this curry house wasn’t a bit busier. Aroma Spice is a good-to-honest curry house that ticks all the boxes: smart interior, friendly enough service and food that hits the mark. All in all this is what all curry houses were like before the contemporary restaurants started appearing.

The restaurant was recommended by a local resident and if I lived in Macclesfield this is the sort of place that I would visit regularly for my curry needs. Restaurants across Britain have been churning out classic starters like Tandoori Chicken (£2.90), Sheek and Shami Kebabs (both £2.50) for years – and the chef here certainly has perfected them in that classic (lots of red and salad) way. They all hit the spot.

The stand-out main dish was the Zinga Garlic Chill (£9.90) with plump prawns coated in a thick, juicy sauce littered with garlic, although there was certainly no complaints about the Chicken Tikka Masala (£7.50) or the Chicken Dupiazia (£6.20). Special Pilau Rice  was £2.80 and a rather good Keema Nan £2.50.

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Classic starters: Tandoori Chicken and Shami Kebabs

Aroma Spice, 40 Park Green, Macclesfield, SK11 7NE. Tel: 01625 503374/500927. Open: Sun–Thurs 5.30pm–11.30pm, Fri–Sat 5pm–midnight.

The scores on the tandoors

Food 7

Decor 7

Service and friendliness 7

Atmosphere (Saturday night) 6

Value 8

Aroma Spice on Urbanspoon

When in Bradford…

Mughals, Bradford

Sweets to tempt you as you enter… and leave Mughals
Sweets to tempt you as you enter… and leave Mughals

When in Bradford, one of the UK’s curry capitals (I don’t want to get into arguments here…) you should head to the busy and long Leeds Road we are told by nearly everyone. Assuming you’re after a curry, of course. Zouk’s Tea Bar and Akbars are two places that are highly recommended. But these were rammed and there were queues so we plumped for a less-assuming place.

Mughals is essentially a takeaway but it has a few of those plastic canteen style tables so you can eat in if you choose. Its fronted by a huge display of colourful sweets and desserts, and many people pass through to do nothing more than pick up a few treats.

But we’ve got our mind on something more spicy. We go for Seekh Kebab (£1.95 each) and Lamb Chops (£4), all mouth-watering and up there with the best tandoori you’ll find anywhere. Then we add a Paya Balti (trotters) at £6.95, to be scooped up with chapattis (35p each). Yes that is 35p each.

To those who don’t like trotters I can only describe this as sucking spicy fat off a bone. You’ll find more meat in the African Chicken Feet recipe that is posted elsewhere on this site. But a man I know who is a big fan of goat’s and cow’s trotters (it’s obviously off-limits to Hindus) says tucking into paya is like “really eating the cow”. And he was licking his lips as he told me. He also told me a nan (£1.60 in Mughals) would be better than the chapattis with a dish he describes as a winter dish or a dish ideal for cold mornings.

• No alcohol is served but you can bring your own and there are shops nearby.

Paya Balti (trotters)

Mughals, 790-792 Leeds Road, Bradford, BD3 9TY. Open: daily 3pm–11pm.

The scores on the tandoors

Food 7⃣

Decor 3⃣

Service and friendliness 8⃣

Atmosphere (Saturday night) 7⃣

Value 9⃣

Mughals on Urbanspoon

Tip of Africa, top curry

Bukhara, Cape Town, South Africa

Buk inside  Buk food

In a city where most of the spice influence comes from the Cape Malay community, it would be easy for a restaurant serving spicy food of the Indian variety to make little effort. After all, there is little competition for food of this type. Which makes the quality of Bukhara even the more remarkable.

Not only is it the best in Cape Town, one of the best in South Africa (along with its sister restaurants in Johannesburg et al) but many mention it up there with the best in the world. One friend, who has done his fair share of Indian food sampling around different countries declares Bukhara singularly as the best.

The sturdy dark tables and chairs, gilded with metallic edging add a manly opulence to the place and although a few more tables have been squeezed in since the early days in the 1990s there is a real feeling of sitting down to a meal of some importance. It’s how I imagine the Moguls would interpret their world if they were around today.

And the food certainly delivers on that feeling of importance. The Lemon Rice (R34) was a meal in itself with nuts, chillies, mustard seeds and curry leaves added. But that would to be to miss out on one of the delicious mains such as the Chicken Chettinad (R114). And although not on the menu some restaurant-made garlic pickle with dried chillies was on offer when I asked for a pickle dish as an extra taste to go with the meal. Delicious.

The menu includes classics such as Lamb Madras (R144) and Chicken Korma (R114) but for those looking to push the boat out (boom boom) The Crayfish Tak a Tak (R269) or the Fish Curry (R124) is the way to go in this great coastal city.

I’ve been eating in this restaurant since it opened in 1995 and it’s still one of the world greats.

 • Note: £1 = approx R15.50 at the time of the visit.

Bukhara, 33 Church Street, Cape Town, South Africa. Tel: +27 (0)21 424-0000. E-mail: capetown@bukhara.com. Open: noon–3pm, 6pm–11pm.

Scores on the tandoors

Décor 8⃣

Food 9⃣

Service and friendliness 8⃣

Atmosphere (weekday afternoon) 5⃣

Value 8⃣

Smart curry night

The Modern, Lincoln

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This smart, modern (yes, it really does live up to its name in style) is situated on the High Street as you head away from the historic centre of the city. The subdued lighting, faux leather chairs, minimalist black tables and Art Deco wallpaper give the restaurant a wine bar feel.

However, apart from a couple of unusual sounding house specials (Delight, a dish garnished with thin crispy potatoes, and Phonier, a dish topped with melted cheese) the menu sticks firmly to the traditional side of things. And what in the modern sense comes more traditional than Chicken Tikka Massala (£6.50)? This was declared, as the plate was wiped clean with the remnants of a keema nan (£2.50), to be the “best ever”. Now, while such wild claims needed to be taken with caution from a man who’s a late-night-after-the-pub curry eater, the food really was up there with the best of them.

The Chicken Dopiaza (£5.50) was also given praise, although not such elevated esteem as from the CTM muncher, and although the order of Prawn Balti Bhuna (£6.50) with an accompanying Green Salad (£1.75) raised eyebrows but it was perfect as a light-style curry after a night in the pub.

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A Prawn Balti with Green Salad is an unusual but refreshing choice on curry night

The Modern, 370 High Street, Lincoln, LN5 7RU. Tel: 01522 534202. Open: daily 5.30pm–11pm (11.30pm Fri–Sat).

The scores on the tandoors

Décor 8⃣

Food 8⃣

Service and friendliness 7⃣

Atmosphere (late Saturday night) 5⃣

Value 7⃣

All year long

Nandini, Goa, India

Nandini is what we can happily call a ‘proper local’ and it’s one of the few places in this hectic section of party Goa that stays open all year round. So if you want a good curry at the start or end of season or even in monsoon times  you know where to come.

If the old adage that you should head where the locals eat is true then head here because it’s always full of Goans and out of towners from Maharashtra. It’s not hard to realise why once you’ve tasted the food. A Paneer Kadai (Rs 80), a Chicken Dopiaza (Rs 120), rice (Rs 60) and a cheese chilli nan (Rs 70) is a feast and a good a feast as you’ll have when it comes to spicy food. Cooked fresh by chefs just a few metres from the table, it’ll have you chomping for more even when your stomach says ‘”no!”

And the good thing about this is that the owner will happily share his recipes for you to take home and try yourself. Just ask. Nandini is a basic, street side restaurant but if you want great food then this is the place.

* At the time of the visit £1 = Rs 85, $1 = Rs 54.

Nandini, Kobra Vaddo, Calungute, Goa. Tel: +91 960 463 6434. Open: early till late all year.

Scores on the tandoors

Food 9⃣

Decor 2⃣

Value 9⃣

Atmosphere 8⃣

Service and friendliness 9⃣

The real Indian deal

Masala Korma, Fuengirola, Spain

The Chicken Dhansak (€7) I ordered was described on the menu as a ‘real Indian dish’ and indeed the food in Masala Korma is certainly real Indian food – spicy, meaty and the sauces a nice thick, but not too dry consistency. The Chicken Dopiaza (€7) had a touch of Jalfrezi about it but plenty of onions in the creamyish sauce, and I’m certainly not complaining about a bit of green pepper and tomatoes and well.

There was a decent portion of mushroom rice (€3) and although the Bombay Aloo (€5) was a bit pricey for a side dish it did the job. You can never go far wrong with this popular side dish, because again, as the menu states it’s ‘simply new potatoes cooked with onion spices and tomato’. Tasty though.

The helpful waiter took me through the interesting specials and it looks like the chef has been having some fun experimenting. As well as a section of Goan specialities (although not all those listed are actually Goan dishes) there is Chicken Manchurian (€9.75), which I was assured is indeed what it appears – a cross between Indian and Chinese dishes.

Then there is Mliyana (€7 for chicken, €8.25 for lamb) a dish cooked with red wine, pineapple, apple cream and coconut sauce), certainly one of the more unusual dishes I’ve ever seen on a curry menu. There are also a couple of interesting mixtures such as Chicken Cheese Tikka (€7) and Mushroom Madras (€7.50) a mix of your choice of meat with the vegetable in the hot sauce.

Masala Korma, C/ Lamo de Espinsosa, 3 Fuengirola, Spain. Tel: +34 (0)952 665 455.. Open: daily 6pm–late (plus Sat–Sun 1pm–4pm).

£1 = approx €1.15 and $1 = approx €0.75 at the time of the visit. 

The scores on the tandoors

Food 7⃣

Décor 6⃣

Value 7⃣

Atmosphere (late Monday) 5⃣

Service and friendliness 8⃣

More than fish

Nawab, Fuengirola, Spain

You’ll find Nawab up Fuengirola’s fish alley, a buzzing area that’s popular among tourists for its wide range of restaurants serving all types of things that used to swim around.

There’s fish, of course – nearly all dishes offer a variation using prawns or king prawns, while a few offer fish. However, when in fish alley each chicken and lamb, that’s what I say.

All the dishes – Chicken Rogan Josh (€8), Lamb Dopiaza (€8.50) and Chicken Biryani (€9.50) and pilau rice (€2.50) all lived up to expectations, but fish alley is about sitting, chatting and soaking up the atmosphere. There’s a great buzz here in season as tourists splash out their euros while spilling out of the numerous restaurants and bars into the alleyway. Not your traditional Indian restaurant experience but certainly one to enjoy.

£1 = approx €1.15 and $1 = approx €0.75 at the time of the visit.

Shaafis, C/. Moncayo, 12, Local 1-B, Edf. Perilla, 29640 Fuengirola, Spain. Tel: +34 (0)951 291 987. Open: daily from 5pm–1am.

Scores on the tandoors

Food 7⃣

Decor 6⃣

Value 7⃣

Service and friendliness 8⃣

Atmosphere 9⃣

When the football is over

Shaafis, Fuengirola, Spain (TA)

Shaafis is the sister restaurant to the Old London Pub, one of the many Brit pubs that line the seafront of Fuengirola for the tourists. Which, of course, makes it an ideal choice for a takeaway after watching football with a couple of pints of San Miguel.

My order was taken in the pub by one of the staff, taken over the restaurant (it’s at the back across the alleyway) then the food delivered to me by a friendly member of staff while I was still at the bar. The Chicken Tikka Biryani (R11.75 but 10% off for takeaways) is served with a vegetable curry and is enough for two meals for most people. What was left certainly went down well the next day.

And for those of you who read the Great Lime Pickle Swindle I am delighted to report that my request for lime pickle this time brought not only lime pickle but also pots mango chutney, onion salad, mint sauce and two popadums – all complimentary.

There is a wide range of all the favourite dishes with starters such as Seekh Kebab at €5.95, mains such as Chicken Rogan and Butter Chicken at €8.50, pilau rice at €2.95 and nan bread €2.50. It’s also worth noting that from 7pm–9pm every day you can get Chicken Jalfriezi/Tikka Masala/Bhona/Curry/Madra with rice or nan for €8.95 or add a starter (choice of Onion Bhaji, Mix Pakora or Chana Puri) for €2 more.

£1 = approx €1.15 and $1 = approx €0.75 at the time of the visit

Shaafis, C/. Castillo, 12 – 29640 Fuengirola, Spain. Tel: +3? (0)952 469 565. Open: daily from 7pm–1am.

Scores on the tandoors

Food 6⃣

Service and friendliness 8⃣

Value 8⃣

Tropical hot

Al Mehran, Durban, South Africa

Durban has a rich tradition of Sub-Continental food. Indeed, all things from the Sub-Continent, with the city often referred to as the largest Indian city outside of India because the majority of the 1.3 million Indians who live in the country reside here. Most were brought to South Africa as indentured workers in the 1800s although there were some slaves before this and some ‘paid-for’ passengers afterwards. Mahatma Gandhi worked and lived in the tropical city during his time in South Africa.

The large Al Mehran is run by Bangladeshis from Dhaka, and although it’s smart enough there a busy canteen feel to it with a steady flow of diners  constantly tucking into tasty, well-proportioned dishes of their favourite spicy food. Although I caught the end of the evening there was no problem and the food was served quickly and without fuss.

On recommendation from my waiter I had Keema Fry (R46.40), a variation of one of my current curry favourites. It was nice and meaty and certainly drier than the normal Keema Curry – so many mince curries can be too mushy and sloppy. It was also nicely spiced to order (it can made ‘mild’, ‘medium’ or ‘hot’ depending on your preference) and was served with pilau rice. I added chapati roti (R5.90).

The choice of Indian dishes is decent enough if fairly limited and you won’t find too many of the old-school favourites that are so popular in the restaurants in Britain (don’t worry, there are few like CTM, a range of biryanis and Aloo Mutter). But there are certainly a few that look worth trying, such as Al-Mehran Baby Chicken Masala (R76.90), Sheep’s Brain Masala (R64.90), Mutton Chops Masala (R74.90) and, of course, Durban’s signature dish Bunny Chow – curry in a loaf of bread that has been scooped out. You can choose from chicken, mutton or vegetable fillings and sizes are quarters, halves or full. Prices vary from R32.90 for a quarter vegetable to R96.90 for a full mutton.

• £1 = approx R15.50 and $1 = R9.90 at the time of the visit.

Al Mehran, 191 Marine Parade, North Beach, Durban, South Africa. Tel: +27 (0)31 332 5127. Open: daily till about 10pm. E-mail: almehran@webmail.co.za

The scores on the tandoors

Food 7⃣

Décor 5⃣

Value 9⃣

Atmosphere (late Sunday) 5⃣

Service and friendliness 7⃣