Whoops! That was nearly a pizza

Spice Lounge, Petersfield

“This is a strange-looking Indian,” Perry says. “It looks more like a pizza place.” Perry likes Indian food but says he can never remember what he likes so every time he eats it’s a new experience.

The entrance to Spice Lounge in this sleepy Hampshire market town (where was everyone? In the new Wetherspoon we learnt later) is upstairs and it’s easy to wander into their downstairs neighbours, an Italian place, as they share a man entrance. Now, I’ve nothing against Italian food, it seems to fuel all those guys in the mafia films, so it’s probably best not to put it down, but really, can pasta every be chosen over a spice rush?

Head upstairs and you’ll be rewarded with a gem of a place with low ceilings, oak beams, little snugs and, for those by the window, a peak into the town (where there are no people). A country Indian, now that’s the style.

Our Bangladeshi waiter, who’s proudly from Dhaka, not Sylhet, the area which supplies most of the curry house chefs and waiters, doesn’t look too impressed with my choice of Chicken Sali Boti (£8.95), which the menu trumpets as a popular wedding dish. It’s a wedding dish because everyone can eat it he says politely but it’s still a double-edged sword of a comment. Anyway, he prefers something way more spicy. Has spice every day he says. I like him already.

The apricots in this Parsi dish give it a nice zing, but I see what he means; it’s nice but won’t set the world on fire.

Our Dhaka friend seems more impressed with my other choice of Lamb Achari (£8.95). I can’t get enough of lime pickle so when I discovered a dish that used pickle in the cooking process I thought I’d hit gold and now it’s a regular order. More zing than those namby pamby apricots.

Perry declares he likes both dishes. Although as his curry menu memory is so bad it’s unlikely he’ll ever be able to find them again. Hopefully he’ll find this great little venue again though.

• Spice Lounge, 1-2 The Square, Petersfield, GU32 3HJ. Tel: 01739 303303. Open: daily noon-2pm, 5.30pm-11.30pm.

Spice Lounge snapshot

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We don’t serve beer sir

Simply Indian, Aldershot

“Four papadams and two beers please.”

You know the score every time you enter a curry house. The poor waiter has hardly got time to say hello and the standard order is out of the mouths of most of us. So I’ve always admired places that don’t serve alcohol (usually because of their Muslim faith) proving that their food can conquer all. Simply Indian is one such place, “because we prefer to concentrate on the food, which is what we do best,” I am told.

You’re allowed to bring your own booze, and handily there’s a shop just a few steps away, but true to their word, food is what they do best.

Sometimes the confidence in someone’s voice is enough to convince us of anything, but this time the manager’s sureness of his food’s quality was true to form not bull. This unassuming place, near Aldershot station, and with a sort of smart canteen feel to it, serves seriously decent food.

From tandoori starters (Tandoori Chicken £3.20), to classic dishes (Lamb Dansak £5.20), to the crushed chill hot (Lamb Patiwala £7.25), side dishes (Saag Aloo £2.75) and the extras (Pilao rice £2.30, Naan £2.20) nothing could be faulted. A lot of Indian meals, especially when there is a hot dish on the table, can blur the taste buds, but here each flavour came through. This balance was especially true of the dansak, when often the sour is allowed to over-power the sweet of this Persian speciality.

“That’ll be four papadams and some tasty food,” next time I’m in then.

• Simply Indian, 14-16 Station Road, Aldershot, Hampshire, GU11 1HT. Tel: 01252 330 070 or 0800 783 1481. Open: Daily 5.30pm-11pm.

Simply Indian snapshot

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And so we return…

Kerala Zone, Greenwich

Blame the World Cup. Blame the Germans for whooping us. Blame the sun. I don’t know, blame anything. The GCC has been remiss and not met for a long time. Luckily we have forgotten the football (maybe) and the rain has returned to London so we had returned to the delights of curry.

“Word has it that the Kerala Zone has reopened,” says GCC member number one.

“We must check it out,” says GCC number two.

There follows lots of comments that blogs which know nothing about publishing law would write up. Crawly type things. Reasons it shut in the first place. All alleged.

“That’s just rumours,” says the fair-minded GCC member.

And he won the day. The World Cup was over. The GCC was back in action. A fine turnout; the usual crowd were ready for spice action.

So the Kerala Zone was back. Optimism abounded. The new (young) guys running the place are keen and friendly. We’d caught the place in newbie territory, with a takeaway style menu and decor to match. Bit unfair, it was clearly in the up-and-running mode, but it had a first-day-at-school air about the place.

Starters seemed universally deep fried and garnished with slices of carrot for some reason (Cashew Nut Pakoda £3.25). Star of the show of the mains was a Cochin Squid Curry (never had that before, £8.25) which was seriously tasty and soft. Your name wasn’t Paul was it Herr Squid?

• Kerala Zone, 119 Trafalgar Road, Greenwich, SE10 9TX. Tel: 020 8293 9158. Open: daily noon-3pm and 6pm-11pm.

Kerala Zone snapshot

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As it says

Curry Tandoor, Beckenham
(Takeaway)

Straight, simple and to the point. If you’re looking for a no-nonsense takeaway with decent prices and with a pub nearby for a pint if you are collecting, Curry Tandoor hits the spice spot.

There’s nothing elaborate about the place but the food comes promptly and at great prices (vegetable main dishes from £3.35, chicken classics £4.55 and even specials like Honey lamb at £5.65).

I just wish they’d told me about the 15% discount for collection orders over £15. With my bill hovering below that it would have actually been cheaper to order another (cheapish dish), pass the £15 mark and get the discount!

Parking: street parking on the Bromley Road or roads off it.

Delivery: free within three mile radius for minimum orders of £12. A charge of £2.50 if it’s under £12.

Specials: 15% discount for orders that are collected.

Beer while you’re waiting: the Oakhill is nearby and has a pleasant enough outside area, albeit by the road.

Curry Tandoor, 76 Bromley Road, Beckenham, Kent, BR3 5NP. Tel: 020 8658 4081. Open: Tues–Sun 5.30pm–11.30pm (midnight on Sat and Sun).

Curry Tandoor snapshot

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At last, a green curry

Taste of India, Greenwich

I really like the tourists in Greenwich. I like the way they wander about with a guidebook, I like the thought that a smelly red telephone box appears to be the greatest thing they have set their eyes on, I like their nice matching jackets (couples) and I like their sensible walking shoes. But best of all I like that they go through the ritual of looking at the menus in pubs. Why bother? We all know they are only going to order fish and chips anyway.

The trouble is they’ve all pushed up the prices of a quick-and-easy pub lunch for the rest of us. Fish and chips? That’ll be a tenner, sir. Bangers and mash. Nearly the same.

Solution? Head to the Taste of India, where the lunchtime buffet is just £5.95. Treat it like a tasting menu: Chicken Pakora, Chicken Tikka, Chicken Jalfrezi, Lamb Karahi, Niramish (mixed vegetables), Tarka Dall (lentils), naan bread, the list goes on and on because the buffet changes every day.

There are also dishes that don’t appear on the regular menu. Which is how I finally found my green curry. If it’s not fresh vegetables then green is not a colour we normally associate with tasty food (think of our associations with algae etc) but the Taste of India’s Green Tandoori Chicken breaks the mould (prejudice).

The lunchtime menu is made for working through, but I found it impossible not to return for more of this green dish and forgo even a bit of a taste of the other dishes. It’s cooked in the tandoor, as would tikka, but it’s been marinated in mint instead of the spices that gives it the red colour. Who needs overpriced fish and chips anyway?

• Taste of India, 43 Greenwich Church St, Greenwich, SE10 9BL. Tel: 020 8858 2668/1380. Open: noon-2.15pm for lunch buffet

Taste of India snapshot

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(Still) in search of a green curry

Spicy Bite, Dublin, Ireland

Dublin is expensive. Curry is painfully expensive. So Spicy Bite, tucked away downstairs in the Moor Mall is the place to head when you want curry without a hole in your pocket. For just €6.50 (not short of the price of starter in a restaurant) you get a buffet of (at my count) eight non-veg dishes, six veg dishes, six sambals, three types of rice dishes, nan, plus chips and prawn crackers for some reason. Tuck in.

You can see the skewers of meat being dropped into the tandoor oven just behind the counter so my tastebuds were raging for tandoori only to discover the super-red meat was disappointingly sweet. But, hey, after plates and plates of great food, hey, who’s complaining? Vegetable kofta (also sweet) topped the dishes on offer along with the Mixed Vegetable Curry.

Spicy Bite is next to similar places offering good value – the Taste of Africa, plus a Mauritian place and another similar Asian buffet. The decor is basic canteen-like but there is a great buzz in the place thanks to the mostly immigrant crowd who know good food and value when they find it, plus you get to see Bollywood movies as you eat or the clothes shops in the mall should you get bored with the food (unlikely). It gives window shopping a new meaning.

• Spicy Bite, Moor Mall, Moor St, Downstairs Lidl City Centre, Dublin 1, Ireland. Tel: 086 197 1423 (in Ireland). Open: daily 10am–8pm.

Spicy Bite snapshot

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In search of a green curry

Monsoon, Dublin, Ireland

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After copious amounts of Guinness on St Patrick’s Day (yes, I did see the parade – it was on the TV), it seemed only fitting to wrap up the early part of the day with a curry.

There might have been something fittingly green on the menu but one look at the prices (Prawn Chilli Masala €18.95, Kadhai Gosht €16.95) had us quickly flicking to the Early Bird Special (starter, main, rice or nan and bottle of beer for €20, served 5.30pm-7.30pm). It’s a reduced menu, but amid talk of Cheltenham Racing (‘You must have had a bit on that one to be sure’ etc) from neighbouring tables it was still enough for us to share the most perfectly cooked Chicken Tikka and Fish Tikka, plus a traditional Rogan Josh (oven-cooked with whole cumin, cassia and cloves), a creamy Goan prawn curry and a Chicken Makhani.

Tim’s big on Chicken Makhani (although insists calling every incarnation of it he ever eats Chicken Balti Tikka Masala) but reckons the Rogan Josh was ‘just like a stew your mum would cook up’.

Mmm, I reckon he’s missing the great taste of those whole spices and that deep, rich sauce. I must admit I love the modern version of the Rogan dish (Lamb or Chicken) that uses lots of tomatoes but lately I’ve been searching out the traditional Mughal version, which is getting more common as people increasing seek out ‘authentic’ Indian dishes instead of the Anglo-Indian inventions most of us grew up with.

I think the ‘authentic’ argument is a silly one anyway (isn’t there a place for all variations of this great food?) but I’ve admiration for an authentic Rogan Josh mainly because I tried to cook it once and failed badly. A stew indeed Mr Chicken Balti Tikka Masala.

• Monsoon, 306-8 Lower Rathmines Road, Dublin, 06, Ireland. Tel: +353 1 491-1666. E-mail: info@monsoon.ie. Open: Mon-Thur 5pm-11.30pm, Fri-Sat 5pm-midnight, Sun 12.30pm-4pm (buffet), and 5pm-11pm.

Monsoon snapshot

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Better than Natwest

March 2010

Mountain View, Blackheath

This is a great building for an Indian (Nepalese really, as the comment points out below) restaurant. Spacious, with high ceilings, and a classy bar area, it certainly makes a change from the tight, flock-wallpapered dens that most curry houses favour. The former Natwest Bank building, right across from Blackheath station, has a certain French feeling about it even, which is fitting as it was chosen by Mr Melange, our Parisian curry fan.

Warmed up by beers in the Railway opposite and a tongue tickler taste of the Dragon Slayer (see previous post), orders followed thick and fast after the complimentary sherry (sherry, in an Indian? That’s a first).

Scallops (£5.95), another Indian first, were spicy and great, Momos (£3.95) the minced-meat balls wrapped in soft pastry discovered in the Gurkha’s Inn on a previous meeting were back in action, along with Stuffed Pepper (£4.95). Thankfully, some sanity was restored to the starters by an order of Onion Bhaji (£2.95).

Ian, as usual, ordered something a bit different (Rapti Salmon Tikka, £7.95) and had to watch as everyone had a taste and his plate disappeared before his eyes. Fish is much underrated and ordered in Indians, I reckon, and the scallops and this salmon proved it shouldn’t be. Go on, next time try something other than chicken or lamb.

There was plenty of that on offer, notably Garlic Chilli Chicken (£6.95) ordered with extra chillies on the side no less, the good old Lamb Rogan (£6.95), and Lamb Jalfrazi (£7.95). And this being curry night, spinach had to appear on the table (cue, a plug for our first recipe, see previous entry…). It came in the form of Sag Aloo (£3.95) although Mr Parisian declared the potatoes got in the way. Addicted to spinach, now I’ve heard of everything.

• Mountain View, 1-3 Lee Road, Blackheath, SE3 9RQ. Tel: 020 8318-9912.

Mountain View snapshot

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Mountain View on Urbanspoon

Blondes have more pizza

February 2010

The Mogul, Greenwich

Well, rock my soul. Drum roll please… Is this girls I see at the GCC monthly meeting? Does it mean a table full of butter chicken? Then I shall hit back with an equally male curry cliche and order a vindaloo. But hang on, butter chicken is the traditional Murgh Makhani version and the good old Vindy is not on the menu at the Moghul (we have returned by popular demand). The Mogul’s menu is what is called ‘authentic’, whatever that means.

What it means is that we all require pronunciation lessons from the (very friendly) waiter in the black-and-white-striped shirt. And another drum roll please… well done Mr Striped Shirt, it’s not often someone takes an order for about 25 dishes and remembers exactly who ordered what (even when those sitting around the table had forgotten when the food trolley rumbled around the corner).

What he didn’t bank on was Mary turning her Chicken Bhoona (ordered off menu so presumably vindaloo would be rustled up too if you asked) into a pizza with a paratha base. Blondes certainly having more fun.

Despite a brave effort from Val to make sure we didn’t order enough for 70 people instead of the seven who made it, the table buckled under the weight of dishes. Top four dishes were 1. Imli Machli (£8.90) which for those without their ‘authentic’ Indian dictionary is red snapper cooked with coriander, black pepper, tamarind and onions, Acharia Gosht (£8.75), roast lamb cooked in zesty pickles and the starters Paneer Saslick (£3.50), pictured above, and Hajari Murgh (£3.70), although the latter was swiftly renamed ‘the first thing on the menu’ by Dave.

Pronunciation problems, who needs them eh, Dave?

• Mogul, 10 Greenwich Church Street, SE10 9BJ. Tel: 020 8858-6790. Open: Mon-Fri 12.00-14.30, 18.00-23.30, Sat-Sun 12.00-23.30.

Mogul snapshot

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Mogul on Urbanspoon

A rather civilised affair

January 2010

Gurkha’s Inn, Greenwich

The best thing about having a decent number around the table for an Indian (well done Ian for rustling up five this month, and even an apology for absence from Tina) is that you can order what you fancy and then when you get bored of it you can just pinch a bit from someone else’s dish.

So it was at the Gurkha’s Inn in East Greenwich. Ian orders King Prawn Tandoori (£9.99) and we all pile in so he only manages good bite or two and couple of butterflys himself. Serves you right for ordering the tastiest-looking dish Mr Organiser.

But the truth is, all the dishes were rather tasty, so swapping and tasting was de rigueur on this first meeting of 2010. I throw in this French phrase in honour of Antoine, our first foreign member of the GCC (Greenwich Curry Club, don’t you know), who received a well-deserved toast for the honour.

Our free-for-all, however, was a rather civilised affair with lots of ‘pleases’ and ‘thank yous’ and ‘you must try mine’ etc as if we are all grown up and middle-aged now (well, at least one of them is accurate).

Dave, in particular, was keen on the ‘you must try mine’ phrase because he ordered the least-enjoyed dish on the table, the Gurkhali Mixed Karahi (£6.95) whose menu description of chicken, lamb, sheekh kebab, prawn with tomatoes, spices and wine, sounded good at least.

But not as good as the rest tasted. The Moghuls perfected the delicate blending of spicest with butter and cream hundreds of years ago and the Gurkha’s chef has picked up the trick. Bring on the Chicken Aishwarya (£6.95), pretty much butter chicken (can’t go wrong there), Gurkha’s King Prawn (£9.95) a butter-tomato sauce with cocunut, and Kukhura (£6.85), which bizarrely for an Indian was more like a Chinese stir fry in black bean sauce, but a nice addition to the free-for-all nonetheless. Add in Pilau Rice (£2.15), Aloo Gobi (£3.25) and a super delicious and spicy Saag Bhaji (£3.25) that would even have Popeye coming back for more, and even Dave’s magical mystery tour down the alleyways to get us here had been forgotten.

Well, we should have known it was going to be good the minute we’d tasted the Momo (Lamb) as starters (£3.85). Soft dumplings wrapping up mincemeat and dipped in achar. Unusual and nice. And that, indeed, is the joy of a Nepalese (did the name Gurkha give you a clue?): all the old favourites but with a twist and a couple of new dishes.

And so it was with the beer. Khukuri, said to be the essence of Nepal (the name is the Gurkha’s famous fighting knife) is rather refreshing and ideal for washing down spices. It’s brewed in Manchester. As you’d expect.

• Gurkha’s Inn, 17 Colom Street, SE10 9HA. Tel: 020 293-5464. Open: Mon-Thur 17.30-23.30, Fri 17.30-midnight, Sat 12.00-15.00 and 17.30-midnight, Sun 12.00-23.00.

Gurkha’s Inn snapshot

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Gurkha's Inn on Urbanspoon