A good curry (like this) is so hard to find

On January 31, 2012 By Daniel FordIn 1. Reviews (London)Leave a comment

Khan’s, Blackheath
(Review by @Benb111)

There was no Audi Quattro being fired up outside Khan’s and DCI Gene Hunt was certainly not tucking into a ruby when we visited this Blackheath old-timer.

But an outing to this local favourite is like going back to the ’80s with the Ashes to Ashes crew. The restaurant, on Montpelier Vale, opened in 1985 and proudly declares itself to be “the first and the best Indian and Nepalese cuisine in the heart of Blackheath for over 25 years.”

Quirkily, the restaurant is currently celebrating its silver jubilee this year – all the decorations and balloons are up – because it didn’t get round to it in 2010.

When we walked in on a heaving Friday service it was like stepping back in time. I’m pretty certain its first customers through the doors 27 years ago would have seen a similar scene to us: burgundy-coloured velvety wall paper, terracotta-coloured floor tiles, photographs of Nepal, gilt-framed mirrors, and eight old-fashioned chandelier-like ‘thingys’, each with three bulbs and little shades (you know the kind: your nan used to have a dusty one in the hall).

Now, there’s nothing wrong with a little bit of retro (or a lot in this case) if the food is good, and at Khan’s, it’s great! I always reckon you can go a long way to identifying a good Indian by the texture of its chicken. Here it was beautifully succulent and moist, not dry and stringy like at lesser places.

Despite the restaurant being packed – Khan’s also had a staff party for 17 in from a local sixth-form college (A- for behaviour), the welcome was warm and sincere.

Top marks then for suited manager and co-owner, Krish, who was charming and pleasant throughout. I don’t usually ask for recommendations (I’m a boring vindaloo man) but I did ask Krish, who steered me to a £8.95 Gurkhali Chicken, one of 14 Chef’s Specials, and billed as “boneless chicken with Nepalese herbs, cooked with yoghurt and green chilli.” It was delicious, with just the right kick.

My wife (She Who Must Be Obeyed), and son, 15, also accompanied me. My daughter, 14, was at a sleepover with her latest BFF (Best Friend Forever).

The Boy, a Chicken Tikka Masala aficionado, grunted that Khan’s effort (£7.95) was up there with the best, in equal first place with Charlton’s Viceroy.

SWMBO went for the Chicken Tikka Pasanda (£7.95), and loved it, probably because of the large splash of red wine in it.

I also had a moreish Bhindi (£3.95), which tasted so fresh I wouldn’t have been surprised if the chef had told me he’d grown the okra in a greenhouse behind the restaurant. We all shared a yummy peshwari nan (£2.95).

Not so successful were the popadoms (75p each), flat Onion Bhaji (£3.45) and two portions of pricey coconut rice (£7.90). I’ve had more fragrant and tastier rice elsewhere.

Because of the large party of teachers and the place being rammed we had to wait for about an hour for the food, but Krish was so friendly we hardly noticed. He was happy to chat, proudly telling us his chefs had worked there for decades.

If you read my previous review of Welling’s Shampan 3 on this site, you will know I love a peek at the loos, as they often tell a lot about a restaurant. Here, you couldn’t swing a cat in the male lav – a kitten maybe – and the decor was dated like the front of house, but so what? It was clean, with a powerful air hand dryer above a tiny sink.

But it’s the food that really matters. Regrettably, too many Indian restaurants today think they can get away with poor food and service if they blind customers with silly oversized plates, sexy lighting and faux leather seats.

At Khan’s, thankfully, it’s all about the food and the service.

And guess what? The first song on the car radio as we drove home across the heath was A Good Heart by Feargal Sharkey… 1985 & All That indeed!

The bill for three (inc. non-alcoholic drinks and 10 per cent service) came to £61.71.

Khan’s Restaurant, 28 Montpelier Vale, Blackheath, London SE3 0TA. Tel: 0208 852 7091. Open: daily noon-2.30pm, and 5.30pm-11.30pm.

Khan’s snapshot

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Quick and easy

On January 15, 2012 By Daniel FordIn 1. Reviews (London)1 Comment

Mehak, Greenwich

Is it me or is up selling in Indian restaurants getting worse?

“Popadoms sir?”
“Not really.”
“Starter sir?”
“No, I’m not that hungry.”
“Vegetable side dish sir?”
“No, I’m okay thanks.”
“Dessert sir?”
“Just the bill thanks.”

How many times have you been in that position in a curry house (often with dirty looks from the waiter)? Or worse still, how many times have you been pushed into ordering an extra dish you probably don’t even want? Sadly it happens, and while I have sympathy with the restaurants who have to make a living, what’s wrong with letting customers pop in for quick and easy curry sometimes (assuming we don’t hog the best table on a Saturday night of course).

So a round of applause to one of Greenwich’s less mentioned curry houses: Mehak. There’s a time and a place for a feast, but one Friday night I just fancied a quick curry. Chicken Vindaloo (£4.40), Pilau Rice (£1.80), Chapati (£1.10) and a large bottle of Cobra (£4.40). No problem. I get my curry fix and I’m in and out of this smart restaurant pretty quickly with a cost of just £12.30 (the other 60p was for the lime pickle).

I was impressed with the food (it’s hard to impress with a basic dish but the Vindy was hot with a thick, dark sauce) and I was impressed with the service. So I’ll be back when it’s time for a feast, probably to taste the sweet and spicy Rista Masalla (£6.50) which is chicken breasts stuffed with mince.

Mehak, 160 Trafalgar Road, Greenwich, Se10 9TZ. Tel: 020 8858 0227 or 020 8293 4752. Open: Mon–Sat 6pm-11.30pm, Sun noon-11pm

Mehak snapshot

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Goan breakfast curry

On December 30, 2011 By Daniel FordIn 3. Reviews (International)Leave a comment

Whispering Palms Beach Resort, Goa
(Review by Laughing M)

Well, it’s only the second day of this Goan adventure and acclimatising to the heat is still the watch word of the day. Yesterday proved that the 30 degrees of searing heat, a dozen Kingfishers plus a brace of G&Ts (purely for their medicinal power of keeping the mosquitoes at bay you’ll understand) make for a heady mix.

I’m convinced that the bartender can’t count, but at the end of the night neither could I. The only recollection I have is that his uncle runs a taxi firm and his mate has the best and cheapest restaurant in town (which I’ll have to find). All travellers will recognise this situation and take it with a pinch of salt. I would suggest that the above estimation be taken the same way, or consider the question coming from your doctor, “How much do you drink?” So I’m claiming the fifth and the above estimation is merely for the record.

The point of my story? Well, the result of this exuberance was a sore head and a missed breakfast at the Whispering Palms Beach Resort. It would turn out that apart from the sore head, this was more than a mistake on my part, as when, I did make it to breakfast the next day, it was superb.

For the curry lovers among us there was a revelation of Goan curry dishes and condiments. I started with plain rice, to this was added a fish curry using a Goan favourite Kingfish, a plain white fish. This was in a sauce that was not hot but very tasty; I suppose I’d say it was a type of korma.

Okra (lady’s fingers) has never been a dish I’ve enjoyed. However, this breakfast was to force me to reconsider this vegetable again. It was presented as Bhindi Bhaji, with the okra cut into small pieces, (10cm) along with green pepper and red onion, again both cut into small pieces, then fried with garlic and fennel seeds. There seemed to be little oil in this dish so I’d try this more as a dry fry, adding just a little oil at a time.

The most revealing vegetable has been the cauliflower. If I was looking for a national vegetable of India, then apart from the red onion, this would have to be it. It seems to appear in so many dishes; one was deep-fried with a batter of mustard seeds with a taste of cardamom and chopped coriander in there. The Aloo Gobi (cauliflower and potato) seems to be available at every meal.

Another vegetable to come to the fore is the humble pea. Vatanyachi Bhaji (Green Peas Curry) has quickly become a favourite dish; the textures and taste of the bhaji of peas, potato, green chillis and coriander are truly amazing. I would recommend looking this one up one the internet and having a bash at this if you like those surprising little peas.

The aim is now to taste as many dishes as possible and where possible to learn how to recreate the menu and add to the repertoire of my curry cooking. So look out Greenwich Curry Club, you might all become guinea pigs in the next few months…

The Whispering Palms Beach Resort, Sinquerim Beach, Candolim Bardez, 403505, Goa. Tel: +91 832 6651515

The Whispering Palms Beach Resort snapshot

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Swimmingly good

On December 5, 2011 By Daniel FordIn 2. Reviews (Other UK)Leave a comment

Kashmiri Aroma, Sheffield

Fish lovers prepare yourself. Sheffield you say? Fish lovers? Indeed, not the obvious place for a fish curry feast but apart from Goa in India I’ve never come across a curry house that serves up so many fish options as Kashmiri Aroma.

So much so that this decidedly nowhere-near-the-sea city (in British terms) has a special fish menu. Ever known that in a curry house? No, me neither. From there came the tasty looking scallops starter. “Huge they are,” said the diners (it sounds better in a Yorkshire accent).

From the sea also came the Dhuan Machli starter (£4.50), a nice piece of lightly spiced smoked haddock as well as the main Balti Machli Chilli (£9.95), a sort of spicy haddock Jalfriezi that was spiced beautifully and cooked to tender perfection with crunchy green peppers. If more curry houses could cook fish like this chicken sales would dwindle. Elsewhere on the menu is Halibut Steak (£14.55) a recipe from the Neelam River in Kashmir, Cod Lion (£12.55), Sea Bass (£11.95) from the villages of the Ravi River in the Punjab, and Goan King Prawns (£11.95) for coconut milk lovers. And this is not to even mention a string of other fish/prawn specialities and the old favourites like Prawn Korma (£7.50).

But the menu is extensive so the non-fish lovers around the table had no problem. A mention in dispatches for Chicken Liver Tikka (£3.70) a starter that sounds like it should be as dry as tongue after a heavy night but somehow pulled it off, and Shahi Garana (£8.50) a keema curry mixed in with chunks of chicken and a decent amount of sauce (is it me or does that dry keema thing get a bit too much sometimes?).

The venue (superb and large bar area by the way) has apparently been a pizza place, a Chinese, a whatever whatever eat eat in previous incarnations, but despite being a bit on the high end of the price range for a Sheffield curry house, unless something changes to these exceptional food standards it’s going to be Kashmiri Aroma for a long time.

Kashmiri Aroma, 798 Chesterfield Road, Sheffield, S8 0SF . Tel: 01142 587780. Open: Mon–Thurs 5.30pm-11pm, Fri–Sat 5.30pm-11.30pm, Sun 5.30pm-10.30pm.

Kashmiri Aroma snapshot

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All change for the drunks

On November 30, 2011 By Daniel FordIn 4. TakeawaysLeave a comment

Simply Indian, Aldershot (Takeaway) UPDATE

Since my last visit Simply Indian has become a takeaway because “we can’t continue to deal with the hassle and the drunks.” Very sad because when it was a BYO and I was told enthusiastically, “we just want to concentrate on good food,” this was a great little restaurant.

The guys in charge are still friendly but there is a sense they’ve lost heart. Seeing a shell of what was a nice friendly restaurant is a bit sad and although the space means the waiting area is large, as it would if you convert a restaurant into a takeaway, it feels a bit ramshackle. Shame on you hassle people and drunks.

The basic Chicken Rogan (£5.95) and Pilao Rice (£2.30) was decent enough but this is no longer a place you’d go out of your way to visit.

• Simply Indian, 14-16 Station Road, Aldershot, Hampshire, GU11 1HT. Tel: 01252 330 070 or 01252 336 667. Open: Daily 5.30pm-11pm.

Simply Indian snapshot

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Hurray! Back to the ’90s

On November 18, 2011 By Daniel FordIn 1. Reviews (London)Leave a comment

Darjeeling, London, SE13

You could be forgiven for thinking you’d been transported back to the 1990s when you visit Darjeeling in Lewisham. Not because the decor is tired, because once past the garish pink sign that announces the place it’s pretty smart and contemporary.

But, joy oh joy, you’ll be transported back by the prices. Eyes were popping out and gasps were heard from around the table as the menus were opened. “This is the place to order king prawn,” was a good shout. And when the usual, “we’ve ordered too much,” was heard it was decided that this was the place to pile high the table and taste new dishes, even if we had over-ordered (does anyone ever under-order in an Indian?)

And so the dishes came… Malai Lamb Chops (£2.85) marinated in cream cheese and spices, so tasty you’ll be sucking on the bone long after the meat has gone, the favourites Chicken Chat (£2.05), Sheek Kebab and Shami Kebab (both £1.95) and a more unusual Spicy Calamari (£2.85) that was stir-fried with onions, peppers and chilli.

It’s becoming popular for restaurant to have an Old Favourites section in a grid and Darjeeling’s, which starts at just £3.15 for a Chicken Curry, was raided for a Chicken Madras (£3.45). But most in the party opted for something a bit different, including Lamb Randaam (£6.85) a very hot and very red dish cooked with tart tamarind, Chicken Morisa (£6.85) another hot dish with fresh green chillies, Lemon Chana Chicken (£5.35) with chick peas, an ideal order for people who find Achari dishes a bit too tart. Meat lovers should look no further than the main version of the Malai Lamb Chops (£5.60).

But come on, let’s over-order. Add Tarka Dall, Mushroom Bhaji and Bombay Aloo (all £2.05 as side dishes or £2.95 as mains), a good selection of rice (Plain at £1.65, Sabzi and Special at £2.25), nans (Plain at £1.55 and garlic at £1.65) and wrap up with a couple of Chapatis (£1.15).

Is it any wonder the place was buzzing midweek?

Darjeeling, 134 Lee High Road, Lewisham, SE13 5PR. Tel: 020 8473 8222 or 020 8852 5566. Open: daily 5.30pm–11.30pm, Sat and Sun noon–2.30pm.

Darjeeling snapshot

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A place to watch

On November 18, 2011 By Daniel FordIn 2. Reviews (Other UK)Leave a comment

Am Kitchen and Bar, Leeds

There can few better surroundings in which to eat a curry than Am Kitchen and Bar. There’s the pay-through-the-teeth grandeur of legendary place like London’s Veeraswamy, of course, or the feet-in-the-sand style of Karma Café in Goa, but right here in the centre of Leeds there is a gem of a curry house.

Based in a former watchmakers, the property is a Listed Building boasting two levels with a large open well in the middle where you can look down on diners below, beautiful chandeliers, and a mind-boggling amount of intricate glass work panels and display cabinets. The necessary contemporary elements needed to operate a restaurant are incorporated into the space well, in particular the way the light grey high-backed chairs offset the dark wood of the tables. But best of all for the Greenwich Curry Club is a superb Greenwich Mean Time clock that takes centre stage over the bar that faces the entrance.

Greenwich Mean Time Clock. It's one of those that's only correct twice a day…

It’d be easy to get distracted from the main reason for being here, yet the Chicken Balti (with extra garlic as requested) delivered that beautiful fresh taste that baltis should and is well priced at £8.55, while there was also no problem adapting a hearty Keema Madras (£8.55) by adding some fresh green chillies. If you’re a starter fan you’ll struggle to find tastier Lamb Chops (£4.25); for a large table of people who can think of a better way to start the communal evening than with a large of pile of these?

By the end of the first bite I’d forgiven the staff for (what appeared to be) a deliberate policy of keeping people waiting at the entrance to ensure the front of house table are always occupied rather than filling up the empty places upstairs. In fact I was rather pleased because Briggate on a Saturday night is ideal for people watching. Coats are a complete no-no even as temperatures plummet. Instead boys seem particularly keen on tops so tight it looks like they’ve just got out the gym and girls on skirts so short that Am Kitchen’s very large Rotis (£1.10 each) would offer more cover.

Am Kitchen and Bar, 24-26 Briggate, Leeds, LS1 6EP. Tel: 0113 242 2626. E-mail: info@amkitchenandbar.com

Am Kitchen and Bar snapshot

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Where there’s smoke there’s tikka

On November 15, 2011 By Daniel FordIn 2. Reviews (Other UK)Leave a comment

New Jomuna, London, SW1V

I’m a sucker for the sizzle of tandoori on a hot serving plate so it was no surprise that as soon I saw a Chicken Tikka starter (£3.70) coming out of the serving hatch, I’d be ordering the same myself. But for all the sizzle and smoke in New Jomuna (and there is a lot of smoke in the upper section where the food comes out) there wasn’t much taste. The chicken was tender, the marinade was red, but alas that famous tandoori taste had left the building.

Oh dear, I thought. It really takes an effort to persuade my friend who is sitting opposite me to come out for a curry – not because he doesn’t like it, it’s just that his Indian wife of many years cooks a mean curry so it’s a case of coals to Newcastle. And now, on a rare curry together we are sitting near Victoria Station surrounded by smoke and decidedly average chicken tikka. But wait, his Chicken Tikka Puri (£4.95) comes quietly to the rescue. No sizzle, no smoke, just tasty meat and fluffy bread to soak the up the sauce.

And so it was all night. For every disappointing dish there was a good one. A Chicken Korai (£6.95) with a less than ‘special sauce’ but a great sweet and spicy King Prawn Dansak (£9.95) with decent enough sized prawns. An Aloo Chana (£3.70) that seemed to forget the aloo bit but a Keema Rice (£3.10) that was piled high with keema and was almost as good as a biryani I comment.

But, oh no, I’ve mentioned the wrong thing. Don’t get my friend started on biryanis. “All that effort and nonsense about the King of Dishes. Not worth it,” he concludes. Just as well I didn’t see a biryani coming out the serving hatch when I arrived really.

New Jomuna, 74 Wilton Road, London, SW1V 1DE. Tel: 020 7828 1401 or 020 7630 0238. E-mail: info@newjomuna.com.

New Jomuna snapshot

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Smile, you’re in Chutney

On November 8, 2011 By Daniel FordIn 1. Reviews (London)1 Comment

Chutney, Greenwich

You’ll have to go a long way to find a friendlier Indian restaurant than Chutney. The small, unassuming place (my friend says it always looks shut) is along Greenwich’s Little India strip, one of a few curry places (mostly takeaways) in just a few hundred metres of each other. But every time I’ve visited the greeting is warm and the chit chat over the choice of dishes with the waiter interesting. But this time Chutney surpassed itself by giving us a lift home because ‘the driver is available’. Now that really is service.

Chutney also serves exceptionally good food and has built a reputation for retaining customers who have moved out of the area. The chutney tray, as you’d expect from a restaurant with this name, offers something different: a dry cocunut chutney, made red with colouring and red wine. Tasty indeed, especially with a bit of sweet mango pickle.

Of the main dishes the new Napali Chicken (£6.45) a hottish dish, cooked with onions and green peppers, is to be recommended. But the menu offers so many interesting options: Boal Fish Massala (£6.45) a freshwater fish from Bangladesh, Pistachio Chicken (£5.95) for nut lovers, a Meat Thali (£10.95) with tasters of Chicken Tikka Masala, Chicken Korma, Lamb Bhuna, Tandoori Chicken, Sheek Kebab, rice and nan, and a good range of Chutney’s very own Tapeli set menus such as Tapeli Bengal or Tapeli Joypuri (both £10.95).

It’s not difficult to see that value features highly here, so it is no surprise that Chutney was named runner-up in the category of Best Value in the Greenwich Curry Club Awards. Should you need further persuading, old-school favourites such as Madras and Bhuna come in at £3.95 for vegetable and £4.45 for chicken, which is better than some of the takeaway neighbours.

Chutney, 11 Blackheath Road, London, SE10 8PE. Tel: 020 8692 1924 or 07947 120 989. Open: Sun–Thur 5.30pm–11.30pm, Fri–Sat 5.30pm–midnight.

Chutney snapshot

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Britain’s Biggest Curry Party in Greenwich

On November 3, 2011 By Daniel FordIn Curry NewsLeave a comment

A superb special menu was set up by the Gurkha’s Inn as the Greenwich Curry Club and friends gathered to be part of Britain’s Biggest Curry Party to raise money for the James Whale Kidney Cancer Fund.

Ideal for grazers who like to try a bit of everything, the menu included a lot of Nepalese specialities. The Lamb Momos, tasty balls of mince wrapped in dough, are a favourite of diners at the Gurkha’s, but with succulent Grilled Salmon and Chicken Tikka, there was a feast in the starters alone.

Welcome surprises on the menu were the Achari Paneer Tikka and the Dal Makhani, both dishes that are often overlooked but incredibly tasty. The Dal Makhani has already been ordered in subsequent curry visits and looks set to be a new favourite. The Lemon Rice, with tiny zesty pieces of the fruit, is delicious, and the tang works particularly well with the spicier dishes such as Chicken Chilly Dry Fry.

SAM_0797 — Eyes up for the Mongoose beers

Gurkha’s King Prawn, with prawns that were worthy of the name, Hariyo Lamb, Kukhura Bhutuwa, and supper soft spinach in the Saag Harabara completed the line-up along with garlic naan and rice.

Mongoose kindly supplied the beer for the evening, although there was still time to sample the Nepalese Khukuri beer, naturally.

The total cost for the food and beer was £20 a head, which included a contribution to the charity. This was topped up by a generous donation from the Gurkha’s Inn itself and some of the regulars at the nearby Plume of Feathers pub.