Tenerife’s Best Curry Part Two (hurrah)

Bombay Babu, Tenerife

Part One of the search for Tenerife’s Best Curry was a tad disappointing to say the least. So hip, hip, hurrah for Bombay Babu (part two) which was the original choice for part one if only we could have found it through the car park, along the alleyway, down the steps etc. But after a couple of days in Tenerife it ain’t so tough to find. And thank goodness for that.

Chirpy chap waiter from Gillingham will keep you amused even if you don’t like the earthy decor with whicker-style chairs and sharp white linen against brown tables with a backdrop of pics of famous Indian sites such as the Mumbai’s Gateway of India.

But forget Gillingham waiters and decor discussion because the Punjabi chef knows his stuff. Herein, through the car park, along the alleyway and down the steps etc lies the greatest Bombay Aloo (€5 plus tax) you are likely to taste. How’s he do it I know not; after all, how can a bit of pepper, tomato and spice added to a few chunks of potato be that different to thousands of other? But, it can. Taste this Bombay Potato please.

The Chicken Dhansak (€8.50 plus tax), Lamb Madras (€8 plus tax) and Mushroom rice (€4 plus tax) were top draw as was the Dhal Mukhni (€5.90 plus tax) the current favourite of lentils with garlic, ginger and coriander and butter, with which the chef shared some ‘how to do it properly’ secrets.

Stupidly I never asked how he did that potato.

Bombay Babu, CC La Niña, Planta 3 Local 62, Torviscas Playa Costa Adeje, Tenerife. Tel: +34 922 719 463. Open: Tues–Sun 2pm-midnight.

Bombay Babu snapshot

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Goan breakfast curry

Whispering Palms Beach Resort, Goa
(Review by Laughing M) 

Well, it’s only the second day of this Goan adventure and acclimatising to the heat is still the watch word of the day. Yesterday proved that the 30 degrees of searing heat, a dozen Kingfishers plus a brace of G&Ts (purely for their medicinal power of keeping the mosquitoes at bay you’ll understand) make for a heady mix.

I’m convinced that the bartender can’t count, but at the end of the night neither could I. The only recollection I have is that his uncle runs a taxi firm and his mate has the best and cheapest restaurant in town (which I’ll have to find). All travellers will recognise this situation and take it with a pinch of salt. I would suggest that the above estimation be taken the same way, or consider the question coming from your doctor, “How much do you drink?”  So I’m claiming the fifth and the above estimation is merely for the record.

The point of my story? Well, the result of this exuberance was a sore head and a missed breakfast at the Whispering Palms Beach Resort. It would turn out that apart from the sore head, this was more than a mistake on my part, as when, I did make it to breakfast the next day, it was superb.

For the curry lovers among us there was a revelation of Goan curry dishes and condiments. I started with plain rice, to this was added a fish curry using a Goan favourite Kingfish, a plain white fish. This was in a sauce that was not hot but very tasty; I suppose I’d say it was a type of korma.

Okra (lady’s fingers) has never been a dish I’ve enjoyed. However, this breakfast was to force me to reconsider this vegetable again. It was presented as Bhindi Bhaji, with the okra cut into small pieces, (10cm) along with green pepper and red onion, again both cut into small pieces, then fried with garlic and fennel seeds. There seemed to be little oil in this dish so I’d try this more as a dry fry, adding just a little oil at a time.

The most revealing vegetable has been the cauliflower. If I was looking for a national vegetable of India, then apart from the red onion, this would have to be it. It seems to appear in so many dishes; one was deep-fried with a batter of mustard seeds with a taste of cardamom and chopped coriander in there. The Aloo Gobi (cauliflower and potato) seems to be available at every meal.

Another vegetable to come to the fore is the humble pea. Vatanyachi Bhaji (Green Peas Curry) has quickly become a favourite dish; the textures and taste of the bhaji of peas, potato, green chillis and coriander are truly amazing. I would recommend looking this one up one the internet and having a bash at this if you like those surprising little peas.

The aim is now to taste as many dishes as possible and where possible to learn how to recreate the menu and add to the repertoire of my curry cooking. So look out Greenwich Curry Club, you might all become guinea pigs in the next few months…

The Whispering Palms Beach Resort, Sinquerim Beach, Candolim Bardez, 403505, Goa. Tel: +91 832 6651515

The Whispering Palms Beach Resort snapshot

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A curry with Widow Twankie

Garden of India, Tenerife

When on holiday I’m all for trying the local food (in the case of Tenerife this appears to be English breakfasts and bangers and mash). But after a couple of days it’s time for some proper food. And so begins the search for a decent Tenerife curry (Part One).

Sadly, it’s not a good start. The Garden of India overlooks a sandy beach at Puerto Colon in the south but inside it seems we’ve stumbled on laundry day, with tablecloths drying on chairs against the psychedelic coloured walls. It’s a scene from Widow Twankie’s living room.

“Behind you!” we shout to the waiter, who, to be fair, is very friendly and helpful. We feel we should get into the panto spirit as we are the only customers. Given the pretty decent music, not quite Bhangra but better than the usual lift variety, we could have quite a party if there was anyone else here.

But the party must wait as the food arrives. Despite the decent value of food on the island, not only the Brit’s abroad variety but also tapas, Italian and Chinese, spice lovers must pay over the odds. The Chicken Tikka Jalfrezi (€11 plus 5% tax) has tasty meat but the sauce is way too watery so needs mopping up with Mutter Pillau (€5 plus tax). Considering the normal Pillau rice is €2.75 the cost of peas must be soaring in the Canaries.

Moghali Chicken (€8 plus tax) offers something different for explorers. With the consistency of tuna, the dish is shredded chicken cooked with egg and cream to bind it together. Add a very decent and fresh naan bread (€2.50 plus tax).

Then return to the Tenerife curry quest.

Garden of India, Puerto Colon Las Americas, Tenerife. Tel +34 922 719 684. Open: daily noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight.

Garden of India snapshot

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I knew you could do it Canada

Masala Bay, Waterloo, Canada

My friend has lived in Canada for two years and says he has yet to find a decent curry house (think he means one that serves food like curry houses in England). Well, now he’s found one.

I beg to differ with my friend; there are some decent curries to be had in Canada, but admittedly Masala Bay‘s food is good. On a ‘sharing, let’s all dip in’ table there has to be one tikka masala butter type thing doesn’t there? It’s a rule. Masala Bay offers three choices of everybody’s favourite dish which is unusual as I doubt if many of us could say what the difference is anyway. So it’s Murg Tikka Makhani (Butter Chicken), Murg Tikka Lababdor or Murg Tikka Masala (all $15.99 plus taxes) depending on what you prefer.

The butter chicken was thick and not as sloppily buttery as you find in some places thank goodness. To complement this butter there was a nice tang in the Murgh Achari ($15.99 plus taxes), a very large portion of Aloo ki Chat ($6.99 plus taxes), Reshmi Kebab ($7.99 plus taxes), a pricey mix pickle ($2.99 plus taxes) and Tandoori Rotis ($1.99 plus taxes each).

Down a side street just off the main drag between Waterloo and Kitchener, there’s a nice outside area (strictly for summer dining, it gets mighty cold here in winter) while inside the bright and breezy decor is fun.

No decent curries in Canada indeed.

Masala Bay, 3B Regina Street North, Waterloo, ON N2J 2J7, Canada. Open: Mon-Thur 11am-2pm and 5pm-10pm, Fri 11am-2pm and 5pm-10.30pm, Sat 11.30am-2pm and 5pm-10.30pm, Sun 5pm-9pm. Tel: +1 519 747 2763.

Masala Bay snapshot

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Masala Bay on Urbanspoon

Sylhet there be spice

India Palace, Toronto, Canada

I knew I’d find one in Canada sooner or later. As soon as I tasted the food in India Palace I knew it. The Sylhet area in Bangladesh provides to bulk of chefs in British ‘Indian’ restaurants, and here in the heart of Toronto, the waiter confirms, is another one of the excellent chefs.

Canadian diners and vistors will be only too aware that being a curry lover is an expensive affair here, so the lunchtime buffet, offering a couple of main meat dishes, dhal, vegetables, chicken tikka, rice and bread, is excellent value at $11.95 (plus 13% tax). Eat later off the a la carte menu and you’ll pay just that for one of the main cheicken dishes.

Grab a window seat and watch Tornto pass by on the busy Queen Street West, chat to the waiter about your favourite dishes, but best of all tuck into good value food from a classic Sylheti chef.

India Palace, 257 Queen Street West, Toronto, M5V 1Z4, Canada. Tel: +1 416 593 7272. Open: daily 11.30am–11pm. email: info@indiapalacequeen.ca

India Palace snapshot

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India Palace on Urbanspoon

Join the queue

Gandhi Cuisine, Toronto, Canada

Although little more than a takeaway place with a few basic tables, Gandhi Cuisine seems to be the place to be for rotis in Toronto judging by the comments around me as I ate.

Set in a Bohemian part of town among tattoo parlours, bars, inexpensive restaurants and a mishmash of shops, Gandhis attracted a steady stream of students and travellers, and businessmen ringing their wives asking how hot the roti should be (they come in a choice of mild, medium or hot). More than one of these roti lovers proudly told their friend about the place’s reputation for good rotis.

If you’re after value, you should know the rotis are huge (nearly everyone walked out with a leftovers box) and the most popular is the Butter chicken roti ($11.95 plus tax). Just what you wanted to know? My pleasure.

Watching the chefs chopping and rolling away in the open kitchen, hearing the sizzle of the oil and breathing in that great smell of spice all adds to the nice buzz in Gandhis.

So it seems rotis are good. But what of the other dishes. The menu is fairly limited but if you like it hot then go for the Chicken Vindaloo with rice ($11.95 plus tax) washed down with a can of cold Coke ($1.50). My request for a ‘hot’ version prompted raised eyebrows and a ‘are you sure?’ And I soon knew why. With its thick tomato base, this was seriously one of the hottest vindys I have ever tasted. Thank goodness for the large portion of plain rice and the sour mixed pickles.

Hot. Very Hot.

In line with the basic nature of the place, everything is served on a tray in a metallic container and must be eaten with a plastic fork.  But this place is all about the food. And very good it is too.

Gandhi Cuisine, 554 Queen Street West, Toronto, Canada. Tel: +1 416 504 8155.

Gandhi Cuisine snapshot

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Gandhi's Indian Cuisine on Urbanspoon

Curry in a hurry

Empress of India, Waterloo, Canada

Let me tell you, turnip tastes good curried. Sliced and cooked in a Jalfriezi-style with turmeric, onions and green peppers, it’s time to take a bow Empress of India chef.

And taking a bow for food at the end of a buffet shift takes some doing. Buffet food never usually scores, let’s be honest, but it works for me if it’s Indian and I have plenty of time to try ‘just a little bit’ of everything. Getting there with ten minutes to spare, ain’t so good.

You could argue the food should be as good at the end as it is at the start or you could argue getting there late is my own silly fault.

I blame the long King Road (in all its East, West, South and North guises) that links Kitchener and Waterloo, which meant me getting off the bus way past the Empress and heading into a bar (purely for directions you’ll understand).

Ten minutes before buffet closing means dried-out looking food, no restocking and almost no desserts left, and curry in a hurry. So it’s to the chef’s credit the food was still pretty decent.

Following on from the turnip was a tasty Chicken Korma, even though it was actually a Chicken Curry (the waitress admitted ‘this is supposed to be a korma’) and good, moist pillau rice.

And even though time was pushed there was still enough for nicely marinated Chicken Tandoori thighs, a crunchy Vegetable Curry, curried chick peas and slices of nan to mop it all up. Only the bony Lamb Curry didn’t appeal. Good work chef.

The lunchtime buffet (Mon-Fri) comes in at $11.99, but by time you’ve added a Kingfisher ($4.85), taxes and tip that’s flown over $20.

Empress of India, 103 King Street North, Waterloo, Ontario, N2J 2X5, Canada. Tel: +1 519 883 1314. Open: Mon-Sat 11.30am-2pm and 5pm -10pm (10.30pm Fri-Sat), Sun 4pm-9pm.

* Now moved to 34 King Street South.

Empress of India snapshot

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Empress of India on Urbanspoon

Among tat and beauty

The Guru, Niagara Falls, Canada

Buy a Niagara Falls fridge magnet, get your pic taken with Tiger Woods (wax version) then it's time for the curry

In this place of both beauty (the Falls are stunning) and utter tat (Clifton Hill seems to have been designed to distract the child with the world’s shortest-ever attention span) you will find the Guru.

The unassuming lattice wood and brown decor in the Guru could be seen as plain elsewhere, but in a town where you bombarded with the bright lights of casinos, the Hard Rock Café, the Haunted House, ten-pin bowling, Guinness World Records (need I go on?) this is a calm before the spicy storm.

Politely staffed, the pink-fronted Guru is wedged between Louis Tussard’s Waxworks and Super Souvenirs, just a nan’s thrown from the madness of Clifton Hill. Serving seriously decent food, it’s been here eight years.

Soothing decor and a thick Lamb Vindaloo

Chicken Haryali Tikka ($13) is a tasty green dish cooked with mint and coriander and served up on a bed of lettuce with slices of raw onion. And the tender Lamb Vindaloo ($14) comes with a think dark sauce (made thicker with added coconut) although it’s not the hottest Vindy you’ll ever find. Add some spicy Achar ($1), Basmati Rice ($3) and Cheetah beers (see next post) for a great meal.

The Guru, Victory House, 5705 Victoria Ave, Cnr Clifton Hill and Victoria Ave. Niagara Falls, Ontario, L2G 3L5, Canada. Tel: +1 905 354 3444.

The Guru snapshot

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The Guru Fine Indian Cuisine on Urbanspoon

Passage to Indian

Indian Jewel, Prague, Czech Republic

Curry? Head for the passage by the Gothic towers

Few curry houses in the world can offer diners such a beautiful walk to their spice fix as the Indian Jewel. Although the actual restaurant entrance is low key, to get there you have to walk through the famed Staroměstské náměstí (Old Town Square) towards the fairy tale Tyn Church with its twin Gothic towers and cluster of spires. Pass through an archway to the side, along a narrow cobbled path, past numerous local restaurants tempting you with their local specialities and then you will reach a large courtyard area where you will find your curry reward. Your reward comes in a restaurant that is simply but tastefully laid out.

Greeted by a Bengali and served by a Czech, advice was quickly offered for descriptions of the dishes on the menu. It’s a fairly limited menu but the dishes are plentiful and well spiced, if a little pricey at around £15 a main dish.

Decor is simple yet attractive. Dhingri Mattar (centre left) and Chicken Vindaloo

The Chicken Vindaloo (360 Kč) had a decent amount of potato in it – it’s amazing how many restaurants hardly bother with what is an essential ingredient of this famous Goan dish. It had a slow burn to it, rather than the kick in the face some vindys deliver. The decent portion of Zafrani Pullao (100 Kč) delivered its delicate saffron taste perfectly, while the Chicken Sag (375 Kč) also got the thumbs up.

The four vegetable dishes are offered as main meals but half portions are offered if you want it as side dish. Dhingri Mattar (90 Kč half portion) was thick and juicy and didn’t hold back on the peas or the mushrooms.

After a quick bit of tourist information as we wrapped up the last bits of chicken and rice it was time to… and you know what’s coming don’t you?… you’ve got it, order the Czech. Boom, boom.

Indian Jewel, Tyn 6, 110 00, Prague 1 – Staré Město, Czech Republic. Tel: +420  222 310 156 or +420 725 107 059. E-mail:ind.jewel@savic.eu.

Indian Jewel snapshot

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Indians not cowboys

Little India, Calahonda, Spain

Run by friendly Punjabi Sikhs, Little India has a reputation for being one of the best Indians in this popular coastal area which attracts a lot of ex-pats and tourists who often go looking for a spice fix when it’s time to take a break from the beach and the umpteen bars.

Based along a road that is more commonly known as The Strip, which offers a plentiful supply of restaurants and bars, it uses the catchy slogan, ‘You’ve tried the cowboys, now try the Indians.’

One Brit, who’s been in Spain 14 years and run an Indian restaurant here himself, declares this a ‘seriously decent curry,’ and this in an area where he tells me ‘most curry houses aren’t really worth bothering with.’

 

Bold colours and intricate carving work give Little India a striking look

The décor is striking and distinctive, with orange plates, bright, large, red (and comfortable) chairs and plenty of intricately carved arches. The bar, in particular, is worth checking out, for this alone.

Popadums were complimentary, while top of the dishes on the table was the tasty Chicken Patiala (€9; although note that seven per cent tax is added to the bill at the end), served in a large earthenware pot. The Lamb Madras (€9) also got the thumbs up, not only because it was ‘as hot as it should be’ but also because there was a decent amount of lamb despite fears of a small serving because of the cost of the meat in Spain.

A decent, if pricey, Bombay Aloo (€6), a generous double serving of Pulao Rice (€2.50 per serving), and tangy lime pickle (complimentary) completed a decent curry night. Only the Roti (€2), which was more like a half-leavened nan, fell short of the mark.

Little India, Conj. Buena Vista L-21/22, Avenida de España, Calahonda. Tel: +34 (0)952 93 18 29. Open: daily from 4pm.

Little India snapshot

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